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 Suri |
 Huacaya |
Suri
 White and Coloured Suri |
The Suri is a rare and precious breed of Alpaca, representing less
than 10% of the Australian Alpaca population and less than 5% of the
world Alpaca population. It is truly a rare and precious specialty fibre.
Australia is well poised to take a share of the market in producing
quantities of fine Suri fleece, largely white but increasingly the rarer
coloured Suri fleece.
Fashion designers such as Beatriz Patino and Maria Bravo
declare Suri to be the most luxurious of all fibres, preferring it even
to cashmere. Their company manufacture luxurious coats, capes and blazers,
which display extreme softness, drape, richness of natural colour, yet
show exceptional durability in the wearing process. Customers have claimed
to own an Alpaca garment for years because of this.
The fashion industry is keen to blend specially fibres such as
cashmere, Alpaca and silks with merino.
Blending natural fibre, natural colours and ecology are in fashion.
Suri is becoming the "green fur", it is the only natural
fibre used for fur that doesn't require animal slaughter.
(See newspaper
article)
5,000 tonnes of Alpaca is grown throughout the world per annum, only
500 tonnes per annum is Suri fibre.
Suri fleece
The Suri carries a silky, soft handling fleece, that moves freely,
yet hugs the body giving the animal a flat sided appearance. The fleece
hangs from a centre part, neck to tail, with well defined locks forming
close to the skin and twisting uniformly to the ends. The overall appearance
is likened to the drape of a curtain of silk tassels.
The primary characteristics which distinguish a Suri are its lock
structure, high lustre, silky handle
and long staple length. The ideal Suri exhibits little
to no medullation
resulting in uniformity throughout the fleece.
1. Lustre and lock structure ~ These two qualities define Suri fibre.
Lustre is the sheen or pearliness in the fleece and measured
by how well the fleece reflects sunlight. It has little to do with lanolin
as Alpaca has 1 - 3% of lanolin only, compared to 17% in Merino.
The lustre in Alpaca is permanent and is an integral part of
the fibre and unlike lanolin in the merino is not removed in the scouring
process.
Lustre is best seen close to the skin where fleece is at its
cleanest.
The lock structure may be twisted, curled or penciled.
They should be well defined(referred to as architecture), narrow, independent,
uniform and form close to the skin.
2. Fineness and handle ~ A fine microned fleece has a soft handle.
The handle of the Suri should also have a silky, slippery feel
across the entire body. Suri fleeces have little to no medullated fibres
compared to Huacaya. For this reason crosses between Suri and Huacayas
have the benefit of decreasing medullated fibre in offspring as well
as increase lustre and staple length and greater uniformity of microns
across the entire fleece.
Therefore with the exception of lower legs and apron the entire Suri
fleece is collected at shearing. There is much less skirting of Suri
fleece compared to Huacaya, therefore adding more value to the fleece
and less time in fleece preparation for sale.
3. Density ~ The hallmark of ideal Suri fleece is its compactness,
This is synonymous with high fleece weights. A more rounded appearance
of the animal can indicate volume (fluffiness) rather than density.
Density is evident by gauging the solidity of lock (or thickness in
terms of density, not broadness of lock), the number of locks over a
relative area as well as the weight of the fleece.
4. Lack of medullation
~ Ideally there should be little or no evidence of medullated fibres
in the fleece.
5. Lock length ~ The lock of the Suri is relatively long and
its fibre should grow one or two centimetres per year longer than a
Huacaya of similar age and micron.
6. Colour ~ Suri fleece comes in varying shades of colour from
white to black. In between there are shades of fawn, brown and grey
including rose grey. Ideally the Alpacas are solid in colour, but may
be any combination of the above. Coloured Suri fleece does not require
dyeing. Suri maintains its sheen for decades where cashmere loses its
lustre after a couple of years.
Faults
- Flat, open fleece with no lock definition (architecture)
- medullation chalkiness or lack of lustre
- Short staple length for age of fleece
- Coarse handle
- Lack of density
- Rounded appearance indicating fluffiness rather than density
Huacayas
The most important characteristics of Huacaya fleece are -
1) Density ~ this determines the commercial aspects of the fleece, in dollar value for fibre weight.
2) Fineness and handle ~ the value is set by the fineness
of a fleece per unit weight. The finer the fleece the more $ per kilo.
The softer the handle the finer the micron and greater the appeal
in "ooh, ah" touch. Alpaca fleece has a comfort factor, four
microns less than the same micron for merino wool. This is because Alpaca
has lesser prickle factor than merino, due to the structure of the fibre
being flatter in the cuticles or scales on the outer fibre - See
further information on fibre
3) Character ~ is closely related to density, strong crimp definition
and staple formation. This is necessary to achieve heavier fleece weights.
4) Lack of medullation ~ fleece should not contain broad microned
straight medullated fibres, especially in the saddle. These protrude
in processing and devalue the fleece price dramatically. The aim in
breeding is to eliminate medullated fibres and this can be achieved in
genetic selection.
5) Lustre ~ This is the amount of light reflected from the fibre
and is desirable in processing as it enhance the appearance of the garment.
Less desirable features -
- Open fleece with no density
- Chalkiness
- Harsh handle
- Short staple length
- Medullated fibre
- Lack of overall coverage
- Tenderness
Crossing Suri with Huacaya?
The simple answer is yes, you can cross. Due to the decline in Suri population in South America, major breeders in Peru are now crossing Suri with Huacaya for two reasons. One to increase the Suri population and secondly to breed back colour into Suri genetics. They are achieving this by using the very best white Suri males over white and coloured Huacayas.
Australia is fortunate enough to have the Purrumbete herd initiated by Roger Haldane the original importer of Chilean Alpacas to Australia in 1989. This herd is a Huacaya base crossed with homozygous Suri males to produce first/ second/ third crosses; known as Fl, F2, F3 and so on until 8 generations of crossings have been achieved. The 8th generation is called a "Pure blood Suri".
The Purrumbete herd has progressed in its crossing program. Roger Haldane showed foresight in commencing the Purrumbete crossings for the goal of developing a genetic pool of coloured Suri as colour is a rare commodity when talking of Suri. Less than 10% of the world Suri population is coloured. The Purrumbete program is now into the F3 cycle, totalling 120 Suri animals.
The Genetics of Suri Crossings
The Suri fleece gene is dominant over the Huacaya, example Suri SS
over Huacaya ss. In mating Suri SS over Huacaya
ss, the outcome is 100% Suri Ss/ phenotypically
Suri fleece, however the offspring Suris are carrying the recessive
Huacaya gene. It is the repeated matings using the SS
males over the Ss Suri females that will after
8 crossings finally breed out the recessive Huacaya gene and SS
will be called a pure blood Suri. This is the aim of the Purrumbete
crossing program. The important aspect of breeding pure SS
is the necessity of breeding homozygous males. The only way of knowing
if a Suri male is homozygous is to cross it with 11 Huacayas and breed
100% Suri offspring.
Many breeders have commenced crossings by using the poorer Huacaya
females. This value adds the offspring in producing a Suri fleece, as
it is worth 3 x the value of Huacaya fleece. However it is also worth
highlighting that the better the Huacaya fleece of the dam in crossing,
the better the fleece outcome.
Colour Genetics
 Coloured Crias (young Alpacas) |
In both Huacaya and Suri there is a range of colours 18 in total, classified by the AAA, extending from white through to all shades of fawns, browns, greys and black. The AAA colour chart shows the basic range of colours.
Suri fibre commands a higher commercial price up to 3 x Huacaya, regardless of colour. The price of coloured Huacaya fleeces is equal to that of white for the same micron. Commercially, coloured fleece is seen to be cost saving in manufacturing because there is no expensive dyeing process. The Asian market loves brightly coloured dyed garments and white and fawn Alpaca is easily dyed to sell to Asian buyers. There is a strong demand for all Alpaca fibre regardless of its colour.
The process of pigment production (or colour formation) in Alpacas
is not a random haphazard event. It is a highly organised sequence,
which begins in the early embryonic stage of development. Elizabeth
Paul B. App. Sci., CAPP. Biology R.M.I.T. Cert. Animal Technology, F.I.T.
has written 4 articles for the AAA journal on colour genetics, which
are listed on our library reading. Elizabeth Paul has recently launched
her book "The Alpaca Colour Key" which unlocks the
mystery of colour genetics in Alpaca. The book is purchased by phone/fax
03 9890 7741
Background Reading
The Alpacas that you see today at shows and field days are descendants
of the ancient South American herds, which have evolved from the camelid
family. The hieroglyphics representing herds of domesticated Alpacas on
the walls of caves are dated 4,000+ years old. Alpaca fibre cloth has
been recovered from Peruvian ruins and dated at over 2,500 years old and
was said to be in excellent condition.
An Introduction to Alpacas
In the past 20 years Alpacas have rapidly become known as the world's
finest livestock investment. For any investment to be desirable and valuable
it must possess certain qualities. An increasing number of countries around
the world are demonstrating a large demand for Alpacas and high prices
are being paid for them. Alpacas are scarce, unique and the textiles produced
from the fibre are exclusive garments made in Italy and Japan.
Alpaca Compatibility to the Environment
- The Alpacas feet are padded and do not erode our landscape, whilst browsing on our native grasses.
- The Alpaca is a ruminant with three stomachs. It converts grass and hay to energy very efficiently, 20% more effective than sheep.
- Alpacas are browsers of pasture and do not graze hard to the ground and protect structure of the pasture.
- Its camelid ancestry allows the Alpaca to thrive with minimal water.
- The Alpaca tends to avoid eating trees, preferring tender grasses.
- A herd of Alpacas create one or two dung piles throughout the paddocks, which makes it easier to collect and compost for fertilizer and also controls the spreading of parasites.
- An Alpaca produces enough fine fleece each year to produce four to six warm garments.
History on Alpacas
The first known records of Alpacas are from Peru where drawings of Alpacas and their herdsmen are found on cave walls. They became the foundation of a prosperous civilisation living high above the coastal plains. Fiber from the Alpaca was uniquely suited to clothe the Andean Indians in their harsh environment.
The Incas conquered the Indians and captured their precious cattle. Alpacas became a source of food, fibre and the basis of wealth for the Inca society. Even after the Spanish conquered Peru, the Alpaca was considered legal tender, or money, by its Indian population.
The South American Alpacas are raised today in the Andes at very high altitude on the poorest of pastures. They were moved from the coastal plains to make room for the Spanish merino sheep. At present the Alta Puno poor pastures are at capacity and therefore the Alpaca population is unable to grow to meet the increasing demand for its fleece. Export of Alpacas was illegal from South America until the early 1980's and is still restricted. The Peruvian government - home of the superior genetics seek to control the supply of fleece by limiting the export of Alpaca breeding stock.
Australian History
In 1989 an import of Chilian Alpacas arrived in Australia, followed
in 1993 with a progression of Peruvian imports as well as a number of
shipments from the USA.
The 1989 Chilean shipment was not the first attempt of introducing Alpacas
to Australia. Charles Ledger sponsored by the NSW government in 1858
smuggled animals out of Chili and brought them to Australia. On their
arrival a very powerful pastoral group lobbied with the NSW government
and sought for the Alpaca herd to be broken up into small lots and auctioned
off. The packages of animals were so small that they became ineffectual
to develop a breeding program.
The 1989 introduction in Australia of Alpacas has become far more productive.
In the first 16 years the Alpaca population has grown to 56,000 registered
studs and has seen a rapid improvement in the genetics, assisted by
the relative temperate, climate, good pasture of Australia and the understanding
of fleece genetics by the Australian breeders.
The available expertise of the Australian animal scientists have made
major improvements in fleece production and in 2005 it is estimated
that 50 plus tonnes of fleece will be supplied to the Australian Alpaca
Co-op, for the manufacture of garments. In Australia using the available
expertise of the scientists, together with the knowledge of Australian
farming will allow the full potential of the Alpaca to be realised.
With our selective breeding techniques and better animal husbandry and
nutritional care, fiber fineness will improve and fleece weight will
increase.
Alpaca Fibre
- Alpaca fleece is valuable because it combines so many positive, commercial attributes into one fiber. The are no negative characteristics to be found in the Alpaca fleece.
- There are 18 distinct colours of the Alpaca fleece, which can be blended to produce an infinite array of natural colours.
- As a result of the range of natural colours available, dyeing is rarely necessary thus reducing production costs.
- White and light fawn fleeces are easily dyed and take colour exceptionally well and retains its natural lustre.
- The fibre from Alpaca is unusually strong and resilient. The strength
of the fibre does not diminish as it becomes finer, thus making it
ideal for industrial processing.
- Alpaca fibre has developed a high thermal capacity, brought about by the genetic evolution of living high in the Andes, at -40 degrees overnight.
- Alpaca fleece is soft and smooth to touch, with an almost slippery feel. The cellular structure of the fibre produces a soft handle unmatched by most other specialty fibres.
- Alpaca produce a fine fibre with an absence of guard hair.
- Alpaca has a natural, rich lustre, which gives garments a high visual appeal.
- Alpaca is compatible with both woolen and worsted manufacturing systems.
- Garments produced can range from bulky tweeds to fine gaberdine and yarns produce exquisite knit wear.
- Alpaca knit wear is long lasting. It does not tear, pill, stain or create static. It is easily cleaned.
- Alpaca fleece produces a high yield of clean fibre after processing: 87 to 95 percent for Alpaca versus 43 to 76 percent for sheep's wool. The fleece weight of Alpaca is maintained in the fibre processing unlike sheep's wool, where a major component of fleece weight is in the lanolin and the impurities adhering to it.
- Alpaca is easier and less expensive to process than sheep's wool due to its minimal lanolin content of 1%.
- Alpaca is able to cleaned or scoured without using costly chemicals.
Alpaca Fleece Characteristics
The fibre structure of Alpaca is similar to that of wool. The outer scales, called cuticles, are hard, flat cells which do not fit together evenly. The tips, or edges, of these cells point away from the fibre shaft, giving the fibre a serrated edge. It is these serrations that allow the fibres to grip together during processing and form a strong yarn.
The softness of Alpaca over wool of the same micron is due to a scale height of 0.4 micron for Alpaca versus 0.8 micron for wool. The lower scale height creates a smoother, slippery feel with a less scratchy surface. Alpaca has a much less prickle factor than merino because of the flatter scales on the fibre shaft.
* Laboratory images supplied courtesy of: Associate Professor, Dr Xungai Wang, Chair of Research Committee, School of Engineering & Technology, Deakin University, Geelong, Vic., Australia.
Alpacas in AustraliaAlpacas in Australia are steadily progressing in number and popularity. It is expected in 2015 that there will be commercial herds in existence for the sole purpose of fleece production. At present the Alpaca industry in Australia is predominantly a genetic industry working towards increasing the National herd size. The income derived from fleece sales is a modest amount compared to the returns from selling genetics. In 2005 the Australian Alpaca Co-operative estimated that they would receive 42 tonne from the Australian breeders which would either be processed into garments or sold overseas. The current prices per kg for Huacaya fleeces are -
The current price per kg for Suri fleeces are -
Australia is fortunate to have a 200 year history in fleece production. We have also gained valuable research knowledge that has allowed Australia's breeding programs to progress forward as world leaders. The Australian Wool Industry has also acknowledged the importance of blending fibres and in particular blending fine wool with speciality fibres, such as Alpaca, silk and cashmere. The consumer is wanting a soft, sensual, flowing garment that is a natural fibre. (See news item) The Alpaca industry is not a new industry. It is an extension of the
sheep growing fleece industry. It is a superior fibre grown on a different
animal. Australia is building its herd with all the knowledge and experience
gained from our past 200 years. |
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Electron Microscope Pictures of
Suri and Huacaya fleece and Merino fleece:
Click image for enlargement: |
